In a world that is constantly covered by guide books, blogs and travel advisors (I refrain from using the name with the acronym TA, since I have come to distrust the 800 lb. gorilla), there are very few undiscovered places. But, there are those that are under-reported. We try to travel to those places.

You can hope that the most popular sites and small cities in the Yucatan won’t be crowded in hot and humid September. For the most part, we weren’t disappointed. Our favorite sites are mentioned in the guide books and we certainly aren’t breaking new ground. But, perhaps our report will encourage you to visit someplace in the Yucatan other than Chichen Itza and Merida – or the beach.

If you visit the Mayan sites in the mornings, you will be rewarded with fewer crowds and cooler (relatively) temperatures. All of our favorite sites allow visitors to climb the pyramids and temples, unlike Chichen Itza.

 

Coba

With two sites located deep in the jungle, Coba is only a 45-minute drive from Tulum. Spending the night allows you to be at the gate when they open, but we can’t recommend a local hotel. Villas Arqueologicas had uncomfortable beds even though it was the nicest and most expensive place in the area. I mean rock hard, with a plastic sheet under the cotton sheet, as if the rooms were renting by the hour instead of the night. At dinner the poc chuc was so dry and overcooked it served more as exercise than food.

The lake setting is lovely, but heed the warnings to stay away from the water. We saw several big crocs and few dogs near the lake.

To enhance your visit to Coba, take every guide book’s advice and rent a bicycle for 35 pesos. The trails are firm and flat and you’ll create your own breeze, which as early as 8:30 in the morning feels great. There is a group of ruins as you enter and you say, “Heck, we can walk to the other sites.” Don’t be a cheap-ass. Rent the bike. You’ll have a self-satisfied smirk on your face while cruising past sweaty hikers who were too cheap to part with the equivalent of  $3 USD. In reality the two sites are more than a kilometer from the entrance and from each other in opposite directions. Your round trip of around 4 – 5 km will a breeze on the bike. Or, if your bum isn’t bike friendly, rent a Mayan driver and a tri-cyclo to peddle you to the sites. Arrive in style.

This photo was used with the permission of my wife/partner. Usually she glows, but in September she sweats.

 

Valladolid

This historic town north of Coba near the Cancun-Merida cuota is worth a day and a night. We found some good food, easy walking streets, a pleasant plaza and interesting architecture.

Unfortunately, another hard mattress with a plastic cover (huh?) under the sheets. I just don’t get it. Please, Mexican hotel owners get rid of the plastic sheets. I won’t return until you do.

So, once again, no sleeping suggestions. But, eating in the loncherias on the north side of  the plaza or at El Meson del Marques was top notch. I respect vegetarians (was one once), but you folks are missing some excellent pork dishes. The cochinita pibil at the loncheria was succulent. The pig rules in Mexico.

 

Ek Balam

An easy twenty minute drive north of Valladolid is the tranquil site of Ek Balam. The amazing Acropolis stretches for 200 meters and features a temple/tomb midway to the top. The sculpture of the jaguar’s mouth which forms the entrance is reason enough for a visit. The details are pretty cool for guys carving with few tools more than 1,000 years ago.

 

 

Chichen Itza

I wasn’t going to mention this spot, because it’s kind of like going to Paris and not visiting the Eiffel Tower. You go to the Yucatan and you must see Chichen Itza, at least once. Everyone has written about it and everyone knows about it.

But, I visited 15 years ago and can’t hide my disappointment in what it has become. Oh sure, the structures and sculptures are still magnificent, but visiting here is like going to the Taj Mahal and not being able to walk in and under the Taj. Look, but don’t touch. Not being allowed to climb (it is steep and dangerous) or go inside El Castillo or to go to the top of Templo de los Guerreros and see the Chac-mool sculptures is just wrong.

It’s become a little too popular, a little too overrun with vendors all selling the same manufactured crap and having to listen to every hotel employee asking, “Are you going to the Sound and Light show tonight.”

We thought, “OK, why not?”

But, it got a little rainy and the over-the-top meal of squash blossom soup and a huge rib eye with a couple glasses of wine dampened my enthusiasm for a Disney-esque show. So we skipped it.

We asked a tourist about it the next morning while we were entering the gate and she delivered one of the best lines of the trip, ”That was 45 minutes of my life I can never get back.” Disaster averted.

The trip was redeemed by a wonderful room at The Mayaland Hotel and the aforementioned dinner splurge. It is a beautiful old hotel with grounds and landscaping to match.

 

Cenote Dzitnup

It’s hard to travel more than ten kilometers on the peninsula without running across a sign for a cenote, freshwater sinkholes that are as important to Yucatecans as shared links are to a blogger. Usually owned by the local village, most are a clean, refreshing stop for a dip. Nothing like 20C degree water when the air temp is around 35C and the humidity is near 100%. Just outside of Valladolid is Dzitnup. The large cavern with crystal clear water is lit by a hole in the ceiling with very determined tree roots reaching from the outside world to the water. Entrance is 52 pesos and worth every bit of it on a hot September afternoon.

 

Izamal

This town deservedly is popular with day trippers from Merida. Like Valladolid, the town oozes charm, has Mayan ruins and is dominated in the center by Convento de San Antonio de Padua, which is probably built on top of a Mayan site. We didn’t try a hotel here, but ate twice at Kinich, which has been serving authentic Yucatecan dishes since 1993. Great poc chuc, queso relleno (loosen your belt for this ball of edam cheese stuffed with ground meat, surrounded with a cream sauce and topped by a tomato sauce  - urp!) and sopa de lima.

 

Uxmal

Between the Yucatan, Campeche and Chiapas, we have visited twelve Mayan sites. Uxmal is one of our favorites. The buildings are impressive, the workmanship is high quality and the site itself is tranquil. We slept well at The Lodge at Uxmal (Mayaland Hotels DON’T use plastic mattress covers) and we enjoyed the large pool.

Yes, I realize that I omitted Merida. Lovers of Merida don’t take offense. But, I’m not in love with your city. This was my second visit, the first time was for a week, this time was for two days. I am afraid your city’s charms are mostly hidden – at least from me.

So, outside of the free evening plaza performances, a few haciendas reborn as boutique hotels and the sublime Sorbeteria El Colon, I don’t get the attraction. Explain it to me. Anyone?