On a recent trip to Tulum we celebrated Jennifer’s birthday at one of the most popular restaurants in the area, Hartwood. Traveling for M&J Photography, means we get to take advantage of local restaurants. Usually, we try something we can’t get at home. Hartwood is no exception. Pretty safe to say there is no place like it on Cozumel.
We had tried to visit a year earlier with our friends, Pawel and Emily, but we were there on a night when they were closed. We also had heard about how popular the restaurant had become and followed the advice of getting there before opening at 6:00 to snag a table. At 5:50 there was a line of about 14 people for the 20 – 30 seat restaurant.
Chef Eric Werner and his wife opened this very cool space a couple of years ago after paying dues in NYC restaurants. Like many hotels and restaurants along this stretch of Tulum’s beach road, the only source of electricity is solar, all of the cooking is done over a wood-fired grill or in a wood-burning oven. The seafood, meat and produce are all sourced locally. Consequently, the menu changes daily.
The food was terrific. We had a whole roasted hogfish (boquinete) stuffed with spinach and roasted radishes, a grouper filet with jalapeños, lime and white beans and a side dish of roasted beets with an avocado sauce. If there had been a chocolate item for dessert, Jennifer would have ordered it, but we passed on the different flavored ice creams.
The young couple from Mexico City at the table next to us ordered the ribs which they raved about. The grilled meats looked pretty darn good, too. The low lighting and the open air dining contributed to a friendly, backyard atmosphere, the service was attentive and the wine by the glass reasonable. Since it was early November and we were on the jungle side of the road, employees came by a couple of times swinginging a smoking pot on a chain (think Greek Orthodox Church) to chase off the mosquitos. An extra measure of caution, which we didn’t need (we sprayed ourselves before arriving).
It’s a bit of a splurge ($80 usd for two), but it was one of the best meals we have had in Mexico.
Returning to our room that night on the outskirts of Tulum was the beginning of a peaceful two-night stay. Posada Yum Kin is one of those places that has been added onto for the last ten years, each addition adding a little more style and class. This ten-room inn is built around trees, and features wonderful gardens, comfortable rooms, a nice pool and great breakfast.